Posts Tagged 'asia'

India: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly

Some highlights of my experiences during two weeks in India, traveling to Delhi, Bangalore, Madurai, Cochin, Munnar and Kumily.

The Good
Costs: Places just do not get cheaper than India, eating out rarely costs more than £2-3 and you can easily eat breakfast for 50p, I regularly had tea for 5Rs (8p) and sweets for 10Rs (15p). I travelled more than 600km and 12h on train for less than £2, that’s a single trip on London Underground. A budget room for a night would cost you around £5-7, in the bigger cities they would be grim, but in smaller towns for this money you get a relatively good comfort level.
Diversity: India is huge, not exactly the size of Europe, but close, with all climates and natural diversity in between. I only got a glimpse what’s on offer, but each place is just so different, from urban ghettos, to tropical rain forests to mountains and desserts. E.g. I visited Periyar national park that has 6 different vegetative zones in one small park, that’s amazing. But the same goes for people, food, customs, language etc.

The Bad
Overwhelming public masculinity: there is overcrowding pretty much everywhere in India, but for me harder to adjust to was the fact that in public 90% are men. It becomes very tiring after a while seeing guys openly peeing on the side of the streets, rubbing their genitals, scratching their mustache or doing any of the other normal guy things you do. I’m relieved to be living in Europe where gender presence in public places is more balanced.

The Ugly
Transport: it’s just nightmare, traveling during Christmas holidays did not help, but overall the distances, congestion and the quality of vehicles both intercity and urban are well past use by date. There are some great exceptions such as Delhi Metro that is under construction, but overall travel in India can test you, unless you only travel by plane or private car. E.g. 120 km bus ride in hilly Kerala region took me more than 5 hours in the bus with no doors nor windows, just rails.
Pollution: rubbish is everywhere, on the streets, in the rivers, by railway trucks, in the jungle. There is no collection in most places, sometimes it just gets burned. The other source of pollution is from transport and lack of green zones in the cities. The air quality in most big cities is really bad, walking around for a few hours you’ll be covered with layer of dust.

India has some great things to offer, spiritual journeys, nature and ancient culture, but it is not really for me. I have a friend who fell in love with the place, and has been there 3 times in last 2 years, but unfortunately not me.

p.s. this week my laptop finally died so India photo uploads will come a bit later

Mean streets of Shenzhen

shenzhen
In autumn 2007 I visited Hong Kong, Southern China and Macau. Three very different places although very close together.
First off was Hong Kong. My favorite airport to date, with sleek design, efficiency and infrastructure built to last for decades. I expected HK to be a bit of mish mash, infested with expats and keen to copy mega cities of the West, but instead it offers a very authentic experience with few chain stores, good congee, busy red light districts and little parks where old men smoke and play board games. HK transport system is second to none, its metros are clean, quiet and fast, its stations are covered in bright colored tiles and old tramlines criss cross the city offering great tour rides for pennies. Although very different in scale somehow it reminds me of Porto. I could live there.
Next up was the real China, I hopped on the metro and went for epic 30min ride up North, where HK ends and China starts. Get off the train, walk a few hundred meters and you are on the border crossing, with Shenzhen on the other side. I stayed with some friends who are architects and worked in Shenzhen at a time. They gave me great little tour around the city, including slum areas that were set to be demolished to make space for some more skyscrapers. At night we went for the famous foot massage, where bulky ex-farmer woman from inland crunch your feet for an hour, until you weep like a baby. I was told that locals go for foot and even full body massage at least once a week, for me one time was enough. Shenzhen was how I imagined China, with heavy trucks congesting the fragile traffic arteries, no street signs, no one in sight that speaks English and taxi drivers that have to stop 3 times and ask shop owners to find the way around the bustling city.
The last part of the journey was Macau, the small ex-Portuguese colony that was finally handed over to China in Dec 1999, two years after Hong Kong. It’s basically Asian Las Vegas with Portuguese twist. Unless you want to waste few hundred quid in slot machines or play golf with wealthy Chinese businessman coming here from inland, there is not much else to do. I went for a day trip as it is a quick ferry ride away from Hong Kong. My favorite part was cuisine as Macau offers very authentic Portuguese and Brazilian experience in the heartland of Asia.
Full set of photos can be seen here.

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